:root{
  --bg:#faf6ef;--paper:#fffdf9;--ink:#1f2a2e;--muted:#5d6a6e;--line:#e7dfd2;
  --teal:#0f5c63;--teal-2:#e3efee;--terra:#c8553d;--sand:#f1e7d6;
  --radius:14px;--max:1080px;
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{margin:0;background:var(--bg);color:var(--ink);font:17px/1.7 Inter,system-ui,-apple-system,Segoe UI,Roboto,sans-serif;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}
a{color:var(--teal);text-underline-offset:3px}
a:hover{color:var(--terra)}
.wrap{max-width:var(--max);margin:0 auto;padding:0 16px}

/* header */
.top{background:var(--paper);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);position:sticky;top:0;z-index:20}
.top-in{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px;min-height:60px}
.logo{font:600 22px/1 Fraunces,Georgia,serif;color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px}
.logo b{color:var(--terra);font-weight:700}
.logo-mark{color:var(--teal);font-size:22px}
.lang-menu{position:relative;flex-shrink:0}
.lang-menu summary{list-style:none;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:6px;cursor:pointer;font:600 13px/1 Inter,sans-serif;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--ink);padding:9px 12px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;background:var(--paper);min-height:40px;user-select:none}
.lang-menu summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.lang-menu summary:hover{border-color:var(--teal)}
.lang-menu .chev{transition:transform .2s}
.lang-menu[open] .chev{transform:rotate(180deg)}
.lang-menu[open] summary{border-color:var(--teal);color:var(--teal)}
.langs{position:absolute;right:0;top:calc(100% + 8px);display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:2px;width:300px;max-width:calc(100vw - 32px);padding:8px;background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;box-shadow:0 12px 32px rgba(0,0,0,.14);z-index:30}
.langs a{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;font:500 14px/1.2 Inter,sans-serif;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);padding:10px;border-radius:9px}
.langs a b{font:700 11px/1 Inter,sans-serif;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--muted);width:22px}
.langs a:hover{background:rgba(0,0,0,.05)}
.langs a[aria-current]{background:var(--teal);color:#fff}
.langs a[aria-current] b{color:#fff}

/* page */
.page{padding:28px 16px 56px}
.crumbs{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:14px}
.crumbs a{color:var(--muted)}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:Fraunces,Georgia,serif;line-height:1.2;color:var(--ink)}
h1{font-size:clamp(28px,4.6vw,46px);margin:.1em 0 .5em;letter-spacing:-.01em;max-width:24ch}
h2{font-size:clamp(23px,3vw,31px);margin:0 0 .6em}
h3{font-size:20px;margin:0 0 .35em}
article{max-width:780px}
.gyg{margin:8px 0 22px;min-height:120px}
.gyg>span{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}
.meta-line{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 10px}
.intro p:first-child{font-size:19px}
section{margin:44px 0 0;scroll-margin-top:80px}

/* toc */
.toc{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:18px 22px;margin:26px 0 0}
.toc strong{font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-size:18px}
.toc ol{margin:8px 0 0;padding-left:20px;columns:2;column-gap:28px;font-size:15px}
.toc li{break-inside:avoid;margin:3px 0}

/* sights */
.sights{display:grid;gap:14px}
.sight{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-left:4px solid var(--teal);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:16px 18px}
.sight p{margin:0}

/* itinerary */
.day{position:relative;padding:4px 0 16px 52px;border-left:2px dashed var(--line);margin-left:18px}
.day:last-child{border-left-color:transparent}
.day h3{font-size:19px;margin:0 0 4px}
.dn{position:absolute;left:-19px;top:0;width:36px;height:36px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--terra);color:#fff;display:grid;place-items:center;font:700 16px/1 Inter,sans-serif}
.day p{margin:0}
.lead-in{color:var(--muted);font-style:italic}

/* tips */
.tips{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:16px}
.tips>div{background:var(--teal-2);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:18px}
.tips p{margin:0}

/* faq */
.faq details{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;padding:12px 16px;margin:0 0 10px}
.faq summary{cursor:pointer;font-weight:600}
.faq details p{margin:.6em 0 0}

/* cards */
.related{margin-top:60px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:28px}
.cards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(160px,1fr));gap:12px}
.cards.grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(260px,1fr));gap:16px}
.card{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:4px;background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:14px 16px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);transition:transform .15s,box-shadow .15s}
.card:hover{transform:translateY(-2px);box-shadow:0 8px 24px rgba(31,42,46,.08);color:var(--ink)}
.card strong{font-family:Fraunces,serif;font-size:19px}
.card.big strong{font-size:23px}
.cc{font-size:12px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em;color:var(--terra);font-weight:600}
.teaser{font-size:14.5px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.5}
.go{margin-top:auto;padding-top:6px;font-weight:600;font-size:14px;color:var(--teal)}

/* home */
.hero{background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--teal) 0%,#174a52 100%);color:#fff;border-radius:22px;padding:clamp(26px,5vw,52px);margin-bottom:34px}
.hero h1{color:#fff;max-width:22ch}
.hero p{max-width:62ch;opacity:.92;margin:0}
.list-h{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px}
.count{font:600 13px/1 Inter,sans-serif;background:var(--sand);color:var(--ink);padding:6px 10px;border-radius:999px}
.prose{max-width:760px}

/* footer */
.foot{background:#16262a;color:#c9d3d2;padding:32px 0;font-size:14px}
.foot a{color:#fff}
.disc{max-width:72ch}
.foot-links{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:18px;margin:12px 0}
.copy{opacity:.7;margin:0}

@media (max-width:640px){
  .top-in{min-height:56px}
  .logo{font-size:19px}
  body{font-size:16px}
  .toc ol{columns:1}
  .tips{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .day{padding-left:40px;margin-left:16px}
  .dn{width:32px;height:32px;left:-17px;font-size:14px}
}

/* long-format sections */
.pairs{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:12px}
.pair{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius);padding:14px 16px}
.pair h3{font-size:18px}
.pair p{margin:0}
.food .pair{border-top:4px solid var(--terra)}
.stay .pair{border-top:4px solid var(--teal)}
.ticks{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
.ticks li{position:relative;padding:6px 0 6px 28px;border-bottom:1px dashed var(--line)}
.ticks li:before{content:"✓";position:absolute;left:4px;top:6px;color:var(--teal);font-weight:700}
#avoid .ticks li:before{content:"✕";color:var(--terra)}
h3.sub{margin:22px 0 8px}
.more-country{margin:16px 0 0;font-weight:600}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:0 0 8px}
.chips a{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;padding:6px 12px;font-size:14px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink)}
.chips a span{color:var(--terra);font-weight:600}
.country{margin-top:34px;scroll-margin-top:80px}
article p a,article li a{font-weight:500}
@media (max-width:700px){.pairs{grid-template-columns:1fr}}